Wednesday, 31 October 2018

Food Trip: 10 Must-Try Ilokano Food

Sinanglao - Ilocos' 'Papaitang Nilagang Baka'
Sinanglao – Ilocos’ ‘Papaitang Nilagang Baka’
10. Sinanglao
Are you one of most PHeeps who always want to included soup on their everyday meal? Do you love to eat Papaitan or Nilagang Baka, if yes, want to combine it and you want to know what it tastes like? Look no further! Ilocos had this food combination for several years now and it’s called a Sinaglao, half Papaitan, half Nilagang Baka dish! It is served as a regular soup that don’t have a bitter taste like the usual Papaitan though it has beef innards or ‘lamang loob’ in Tagalog but the soup is partnered with a sauce bottle. Not your usual sauce bottle because it is actually called the ‘Papaitan Sauce’, this is a perfect way to blend the volume of bitterness of your Sinanglao. A very unique dish indeed and as of now, the most famous place to check out Sinanglao is by the streets of Vigan City, along Plaza Burgos. There you can taste this infamous but truly delicious authentic dish!

Okoy is a famous snack on Vigan City
Okoy is a famous snack on Vigan City
9. Okoy Vigan
Okoy or Shrimp fritters are in fact well known to be served all around the country but probably the best ones can be found in Vigan City, Ilocos Sur. Unlike a regular Okoy, the main ingredient-shrimp will be mixed altogether with garlic, chili peppers and sometimes even with vegetables. Plus it is a perfect match with Ilocos’ very own Sukang Iloko. Try out Vigan City’s Okoys at the famous ‘Emapanadahan‘ at Plaza Burgos of Vigan City.

Tinubong - The weapon of choice when a 'Zombie Apocalypse' occurs
Tinubong – The weapon of choice when a ‘Zombie Apocalypse’ occurs
8. Tinubong
No those are not bamboo batons that serves as a weapon though nifty when a Zombie Apocalypse occurs. Those are actually Tinubongs! The name is actually derived from it’s bamboo container which is called a ‘tubong’. With the other end of the tubong open, a wet mixture of glutinous flour, sugar, coconut milk, small strips of young coconut flesh, cheese and margarine is inserted into the tube. Others also used ground peanuts and raisins. In the good old days, the tinubong was cooked over charcoal embers until the tubong changed its color from green to a slightly scorched black. Nowadays, however, large-scale tinubong makers use the kind of ovens found in bakeries. Now Tinubongs are one of the signature ‘pasalubong’ when you come from Ilocos, due to the fact that it lasts for up to 2 weeks without refrigeration. You can check out Kuya Rex & Ate Lisa’s Tinubongs and other authentic delicacies at their store at Santo Domingo, Ilocos sur named Four Stars Tinubong.

Batac & Pagudpud boasts the most delcious Empanadang Ilokos ever. Sorry Vigan
Batac & Pagudpud boasts the most delcious Empanadang Ilokos ever. Sorry Vigan
7. Empanadang Batac/Pagudpud
At first glance, you will thought that these fritters are giant ‘Kwek-Kweks’ but actually these are the famous Empanadang Iloko. With the combination of beans, shredded cabbages, grated unripe papayas, onion, garlic, longganisang Iloko and finally the finishing touch, crack the egg and put in the middle of the dough. Not to mention the dough/coating itself is made of rice flour. Totally different from Vigan’s regular flour coating making it much more delicious and heavier on our tummies. The orange coloring of the Empanada is made to attract the PHeeps since the regular Empanada is just a dull brown fritter just like the ones you can see at Vigan City. (Sorry) You can check out Batac’s famous Empanadas at their Empanadahan by the River or visit Pagudpud very own Angela’s Empanada near the municipal hall and town plaza.

Treat yourself with Royalty PHeeps!
Treat yourself with Royalty PHeeps!
6. Royal Bibingka
Treat yourself with Royalty on Ilocos. Try out these tasty Bibingkas but they are not the usual ‘Christmas bibingkas’, they are much smaller, turned into cupcake size. Though the texture is much more different, they are like those ‘Kutsintas’, sticky but soft. The Royal Bibingkas retain the cheese and butter toppings and these treats lasts a week without refrigeration. Royal Bibingkas spans across mostly around the province of Ilocos Sur. Marsha’s, Tongson’s, Sisters’ and Four Stars serve the best Royal Bibingkas out there.

Chocolate Brownies that melt in your mouth
Chocolate Brownies that melt in your mouth
5. Marsha’s Brownies
We’re half way through our list, this means that we’re approaching the best that Ilocos has to offer! (based on our opinion)So let’s get started with number 5!
Yet another unique way of our Ilokano PHeeps to shake things around. Introducing Marsha’s Chocolate Brownies! What’s so special about it? Not much but the fact the chocolate coating is mixed with cheese! That’s right cheese! Causing the brownies to taste mildly sweet with a salty aftertaste. The melting sensation of chocolate and a little bit of cheese in your mouth is the best thus making Marsha’s Brownies number 5 on our list. Check our Marsh’as Brownies at Marsha’s Delicacies at Bantay along the Maharlika highway or go to their stall near Plaza Burgos at Vigan City.

Insarabasab - your regular ol' Liempo drenched with Ilocos Vinegar
Insarabasab – your regular ol’ Liempo drenched with Ilocos Vinegar
4. Insarabasab
Insarabasab, Sarabasab or Ilocano Style Sisig is an Ilocano dish made out of chopped flame grilled pork belly mixed with chillies, onions, vinegar and other spices. The name of this dish came from the word Insarabasab which means “something burned in fire” which exactly describes its cooking process. Traditional way basically is cooked in flames over a top of a clay stove called dalikan, the taste of the logs smoke add to the character of this dish, once cooked the pork is then chopped into small pieces and mixed with other ingredients and the most important of it is the drenching of Sukang Ilocos.

Pinakbet or Pakbet, the Original one
Pinakbet or Pakbet, the Original one
3. The Original Pinakbet/Pakbet
‘Pakbut’! he word is the contracted form of the Ilokano word pinakebbet, meaning “shrunk” or “shriveled”. The original Ilokano pinakbet uses bagoong, of fermented monamon or other fish, for seasoning sauce, while further south, bagoong alamangis used. The dish usually includes ‘Ampalaya’ or bitter melon. Other vegetables used includes eggplant, tomato, okra, string beans, chili peppers, parda, winged beans, and others. Root crops and some beans like camote, patani, kadios are also optionally added. The young pod of malunggay is also added. It is usually spiced with ginger, onions, or garlic. Traditionally, Ilokano folks add any edible plants on their backyard to the Pinakbet. And Ilokanos told us if you added a squash or ‘Kalabasa’, it’s not a Ilokano Pakbet anymore.

Longganisa Heaven!
Longganisa Heaven!
2. Longganisang Iloko
Of course! How can we not forget these delicious things! Longganisang Iloko  or popularly known as Longganisang Vigan is the traditional plump native sausage, good for about two or three bites. It is garlicky and has a yellowish color. Although it is eaten anytime, even as a bread filling, it is traditional favored as breakfast fare together with fried eggs and steamed or fried rice. It is best dipped in Ilocos vinegar with plenty of chili, garlic and onions. Filipinos cook them in a pan with water. The longganisa cooks in its own fat after the water evaporates and is then cooked further until it slightly caramelizes. A tip to avoid crumbling is to place it in the freezer for a while before frying it. Vigan longganisa is said to be an influence of the Mexican salami. The tradition of making this native has existed since the period of the Spanish galleon trade. It is distinct from other Philippine sausages because of its use of the local sugar cane vinegar and Vigan-grown garlic, which are major products of the city as well. The Biguenos (or the locals of Vigan City) are so fiercely proud of their longganisa that they have made it as the product they would like to be most known for.

Before we head to our number 1 food of Ilocos, check out our Honorable Mentions;
Dragonfruit, Dinengdeng, Dinakdakan, Pakbet Pizza, Empanadang Vigan, Karamay, Any Goat delicacy
And finally, our Top 1 best food in Ilocos is, the one & only;

Banet - King of Ilokano Food
Banet – King of Ilokano Food
1. Bagnet
Bagnet is the Ilokano version of one of our favorite Filipino dish called lechon kawali. The usual sauce paired with lechon kawali is the lechon sauce, made from pork liver, bread crumbs and spices and some prefer vinegar with spices. But the original sauce for bagnet is raw pork blood mixed with sugar and vinegar, a sort of kinilaw, others also prefer some Bagoong Isda as their sauce.  A Bagnet is traditionally dried under the sun, marinated and then deep fried making it much crispier and has a distinct taste than your regular Lechon Kawali. When you see a Bagnet, you automatically think of Ilocos thus the Ilokanos officially recognizes this food as their regional delicacy symbol. You can found Bagnets almost everywhere in the entire Ilocos region, even in the Cordilleras as well!

Food Trip: Vigan


Aside from shopping for antiques and furniture, Vigan, the capital of Ilocos Sur, offers a lot of options for food-trippers. With their hefty servings of deep-fried pork and flavorful street food packed with native sausages, Vigan is definitely a foodie destination for carnivores. You don’t even have to go far to enjoy a good meal. A lot of good eating places are located along Calle Crisologo, just walking distance from the plaza and top hotels in the city.
01. food trip vigan cafe leona
Among Vigan’s many restaurants, Cafe Leona, named after a famous Ilocana poet, satirist and playwright, Leona Florentina, is the most popular. You can try out a variety of traditional Ilocano specialties, and some fusion European, Japanese and Western dishes here. Other good places to check out are Hidden Garden and Celedonia Garden, a large native restaurant in Brgy. Beddeng Laud, located by the Mestizo River’s dock for River Heritage Tours. Here’s my pick of some of the must-eats in Vigan.
Bagnet
If you haven’t ever tasted bagnet (boiled and deep-fried pork belly), you’re missing out on life. Imagine a huge slab of meat with crunchy golden skin that has been deep-fried to perfection. Dunk it in some vinegar, and you can have it for breakfast, lunch, dinner and dessert (with beer). You can find this delicious and cholesterol-rich dish served in most Ilocano Restaurants in Vigan.
02. cafe leona vigan bagnet

VIgan Longganisa

Vigan Longanisa is a small and plump native sausage, that has a strong garlic flavor and is yellowish in color. Although it can be eaten anytime, it’s traditionally served as breakfast fare paired with fried eggs and steamed or fried rice (longsilog). It is best dipped in Ilocos vinegar with plenty of chili, garlic and onions.
03. vigan longanisa

Pinakbet

Pinakbet or pakbet is dish that’s indigenous to the Northern regions of the country, including Ilocos Sur. The term actually comes from the Ilokano word pinakebbet, which means shrunk or shriveled. The original Ilokano recipe uses mixed vegetables like eggplant, tomato, okra and string beans, among others steamed in a flavorful bagoong, or fermented shrimp or fish paste, for seasoning. This is a must-have vegetable dish you can enjoy with generous servings of meat or fish viands.
04. cafe leona vigan pinakbet buffet

Dinakdakan

Dinakdakan is an appetizer dish made-up of boiled and grilled pig parts – in which ears, liver, and face (mascara) are the most commonly used; other parts such as stomach and intestines can also be utilized. Like bagnet, this goes great with beer! The dinakdakan na bagnet served at Happy Tummy, a budget family-style restaurant along Calle Crisologo, was pretty good.
05. vigan dinakdakan na bagnet happy tummy

Fusion Cuisine

Aside from serving traditional Ilocano cuisine, some restaurants in Vigan, like Cafe Leona, offer unique takes on the staples with their fusion dishes. Interesting items include sizzling bagnet sisig, bagnet bacon maki, longganisa maki, Bagnet KBL Pizza, Longanisa Pizza, and Pinakbet Pizza, to name a few.
06. cafe leona vigan bagnet pizza
Vigan Empanada
One of the best things to eat in Vigan is definitely their empanada, a delicious patty stuffed with grated green papaya, toge or mung bean sprouts, shredded carrots, whole egg and skinless Vigan longganisa.
08. vigan empanada preparation
The fillings are placed inside a thin crust or shell made of rice flour, than fried to a crisp. Salt, oil and atchuete is mixed into the rice dough giving the empanada its signature bright orange color. This is best eaten with lots of vinegar.
09. vigan empanada

Lumpianada

During my visit, I also got to try “lumpianada,” which combines the hefty lumpia (spring roll) and the usual assortment of vegetables found in it along with the traditional fillings for the Vigan Empanada, including longanisa and egg. It’s like lumpiang toge but with meat. Yum.
10. vigan lumpianada

Vigan Miki

Another popular street food sold in the plaza is Vigan Miki, a savory chicken noodle soup which makes use of white miki noodles that are traditionally made by hand. The broth has a bright reddish-orange color that  comes from achuete or annatto, a coloring agent with a subtle flavor typically used in dishes like kare-kare and Pancit Malabon.
11. vigan miki noodles
Other popular Ilocano street food include Okoy (deep fried shrimps mixed with flour and eggs), pinapaitan (bitter meat dish, made with either beef or goat bile and innards) and sinanglao (beef broth with beef innards).

Fast Food joints

I’m not a big fan of eating in fast food joints during trips, since they offer the same kind of food you can get back home. However, if you’re craving for something familiar, lots of popular fast food chains like McDonald’s, Jollibee and Max’s Restaurant can now be found near Calle Crisologo. What’s most interesting is that the buildings all follow a building code to retain the city’s old-style charm.
13. mcdonald's vigan

Coffee and sweets

Coffee Break is a pleasant place to stop for dessert, pastries and coffee. Nice cozy interiors and free WiFi!
12. coffee break vigan

Souvenir Food Products

Food products make the best souvenirs. Choices include frozen packages of bagnet, longanisa, bottles of sukang iloko (Ilocos vinegar), pure honey, basi (local sugarcane wine), wild berry wine, and chichacorn or cornik (dried corn with different flavors to taste like cheese, barbeque, garlic). Tongson’s Royal Bibingka is also very popular with tourists.
14. souvenirs vigan basi wine chichacorn royal bibingka

Bonus: Beers!

15. beer in aniceto mansion vigan
Ilocos Sur is more well-known for their wines, so I was surprised to find a great selection of foreign beers in the convenience store at the lobby of RF Aniceto Mansion (where I was checked in) including Pyramid Hefeweizen, Blue Moon, Ranger India Pale Ale, and Longboard.
16. aniceto mansion vigan beer tasting
Some colleagues and I had a craft beer tasting session, and I took a couple of bottles more home. Too bad most beers were already stale though.

WHERE TO EAT IN VIGAN:

  • Cafe Leona
  • AF Aniceto Mansion
  • Happy Tummy
  • Hidden Garden
  • Celedonia Garden
  • Uno Grille
  • Bistro Amarillo
  • Cafe Uno
  • Coffee Break